Table of Contents
What affects ocean wave speed?
The speed of all ocean waves is controlled by gravity, wavelength, and water depth. Most characteristics of ocean waves depend on the relationship between their wavelength and water depth. Wavelength determines the size of the orbits of water molecules within a wave, but water depth determines the shape of the orbits.
Why do waves move faster and increase in height as they approach shore?
Because of the friction of the deeper part of the wave with particles on the bottom, the top of the wave begins to move faster than the deeper parts of the wave. When this happens, the front surface of the wave gradually becomes steeper than the back surface.
What causes waves to slow down in the shallow water near the shore?
In shallower water near the coast, waves slow down because of the force exerted on them by the seabed. Even if waves are coming in from deep water at an angle to the beach, the move to shallower water means that the waves will slow down and curve around (refract) so they are more parallel as the surf hits the beach.
How are rogue waves different from earthquake induced tsunamis?
Rogue waves are, therefore distinct from tsunamis. Tsunamis are caused by a massive displacement of water, often resulting from sudden movements of the ocean floor, after which they propagate at high speed over a wide area.
How are rogue waves and tsunamis alike and different essay?
Tsunamis move much more water. Unlike the rogue wave, which is a single wave that is up to 100 feet high, a tsunami is a series of waves. Tsunamis are caused by landslides, volcanoes, or earthquakes that occur on the ocean floor. Large meteorites can also trigger a tsunami if they strike the ocean’s surface.
What determines the strength of a wave?
Wave height is affected by wind speed, wind duration (or how long the wind blows), and fetch, which is the distance over water that the wind blows in a single direction. If wind speed is slow, only small waves result, regardless of wind duration or fetch.
Why do longer waves travel faster?
Imagine two sets of waves that have the same speed. If one set has a longer wavelength, it will have a lower frequency (more time between waves). If the other set has a shorter wavelength, it will have a higher frequency (less time between waves). Sound waves travel much faster than normal water waves.
Why do waves change as they approach the shore?
As the waves approach the shore the troughs of the waves encounter resistance from the bottom of the ocean. The friction between the wave and the ocean bottom slows the wave. This friction reduces the wavelength of the waves. As the wavelength gets shorter the crest get higher and the troughs deeper.
How does an ocean wave change when it reaches shallow water?
As a wave enters shallow water, wave height increases and wavelength de- creases. As the ratio of wave height to wavelength, called wave steepness, increases, the wave becomes less stable.